I’ve been slack, or rather, hesitant. A lot has happened since Baiona and it has left me really thought-ful.
Plans had to be changed overnight as our visit to Tanya’s place in Oia was cancelled. After I had spent a good day trying to work out buses and taxis to get there, she rang me to say she had a bed bug situation and was waiting for the fumigation man to come. Her Inn was closed. This was probably a blessing in disguise, for as much as I wanted to see her beautiful renovated house and of course see my old buddy Tanya as well, I was wondering how my group would accept the albergue type aspect of sleeping in one room. I hadn’t told them of the sleeping arrangements, and as I had stressed from day one, they were merely coming on my holiday and I was not leading a guided tour as a travel agent. They would just have to suck it up and embrace the situation, probably actually enjoy it, as Tanya is a perfect host and such a warm and loving person. She radiates love and care. So far, our accommodations had been a mixture of 1-5 stars but this coming directly after a 5 star, might have caused an issue.
Anyway, I then had to re- organize accommodation for the night, and as we were already passing through Vigo, I found an apartment in old town right near the Igrexa da Virxe Peregrina (church of the Virgin Pilgrim). It is in the shape of a shell and is quite beautiful.
No longer would we enjoy Tanya’s hospitality or see the Monte Tecla Celtic ruins, and there was nothing much to do in Vigo. We ate and drank wine of course, but it was actually a welcome hiatus for some of us. We wandered the town and watched a busker blowing bubbles for the kids, and just enjoyed the rest.
My friend Patti, who you may remember from previous camino blogs, joined us here too, and she fitted in well with the group.
The next morning, Gonzalo drove down from Santiago to pick us up. We bundled our luggage in the van and thus began a two day tour of Galicia.
Gonzalo used to be a taxi driver and is born and bred in Galicia so his extensive knowledge of the area, his generosity with his time, and his kind and gentle nature was greatly appreciated. We visited an amazing castle, went to the northern most point where the Atlantic meets the Cantabrian Sea, we saw wild horses, incredible views, visited Combarro for lunch, Poio to see the mosaic cloister, we did a fabulous wine tasting experience and finished back in Santiago.
Free time in Santiago was lovely and I showed my group some of my favourite things and secret places. We had tapas and wine, we had a drink at the Parador and chatted about our highlights of the trip. I had booked at a small and cosy place just around the corner from the cathedral, so everything was in walking distance. For those that don’t know, Santiago old town is a no car zone.
One last part of this holiday was a trip to Muxia. It is a place of great spiritual significance, supposedly where it is was believed to be the place where the Virgin Mary arrived on a stone boat to encourage the Apostol James in his preaching in the north-east of the Peninsula. It has a very deep Celtic feel and connection also.
We walked out to the church, battling the howling wind and climbed up Mont Corpiño to the cross at the top for the view and a photo opportunity. From there, you can see the whole area of Muxia. alas, no sunset as the weather was turning😢
We caught the bus back to Santiago the next day and had free time until the evening where we were treated to a private Queimada performed by Gonzalo.
Queimada is a drink made from the byproducts of winemaking–and made with lemon peel, orange peel sugar and coffee beans. Variations of queimada may include cinnamon or apples. It is traditionally prepared in a hollowed-out pumpkin or a ceramic or clay pot.
Whilst preparing the punch a spell or incantation is recited, so that special powers are instilled into the queimada and those drinking it. Then the queimada is set alight, and is drunk warm when the flame dies out and it has reduced. It was delicious. It is served in clay cups, the first cup to burn the witches and bad spirits, the second to get rid of bad luck and the third ….. well don’t drink it if you want to find your way home
So that is a wrap for our trip. So many wonderful memories. We ended on our last night with the edge of a cyclone and the streets were awash. A clean start for new beginnings perhaps.














I’ve enjoyed reading about your journey Margaret. Brings back lots of memories.
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